I am running a 'B' body powered by an awesome 360 on a short dirt track. is there anyone else that is doing the same? I would like to trade info and tips!! The car hooks very well of the corners but seems tight going in. Awesome low end acel and straight speed[This message has been edited by Mopar Thunder (edited January 10, 1999).] I DONT RUN ONE BUT INEW SOMEBODY WHO HAD A SIMILER SET UP ,HE DID PRETTY WELL THE BIGGEST THING IS HOW WELL IT HOOKS OUT OF THE CORNERS I AM CURRENTLY BUILDING A 76 ASPEN . AND AM TRYING TO GET INFO ON SUSPENTION SET UP FOR A 3/8 BANKED...
Anyone know the best way to plug those small holes under the exauhst ports on small block heads for header installation? The BEST way to plug the holes is to drill & tap for allen head pipe plugs. This, of course, requires removal of the heads. There may be other ways to plug these holes, but I think this is the best. The header flange does not cover these? Maybe have the header flange modified (welded) to extend over the holes? Good luck! Thanks Dartman,I believe the header flange does cover these holes,but I practice prevention.I've had enough header leaks in the past,that I haven't even used headers for...
Please Make the Charger R/T!!!!!325 HP RWD stick.......it dosen't get any better.....oh yeagh..its a Mopar!!!!! Don't lose me to a Camaro! Im 18 and a Mopar die hard but I need RWD V-8, and I don't mean a rotted out Challenger with 70's technology. Currently own a 92 IROC R/T that I drag race and autocross. Awesome but the 4 banger motor is a pain. Need Charger R/T!!!!!I will sell everything I own to get it. I agree, make the Charger! It's been too long since the Mopar fans have had a rwd car. I am waiting with check book in hand. Make either the new Charger or the Copperhead. Either one would be just fine as far as I'm...
Has anyone out there used the Sanderson shortie headers. They look like a good piece and I was just wondering if anyone had ever used them. I don't know about those , but I would recommend the JBA shorties . I have them on my Dakota R/T and many other Dakota owners have them (we had a group deal on the DML). They are Stainless Steel and there is an option for a nice ceramic coating.We are in the midst of a new group buy for any Dodge V8 truck from like 92-99 . If you are interested , check it out on the Dakota Mailing List at http://csclub0.cs.fredonia.edu/WWWProfile/dmlbuys/WbAwA1Rqxj8bs/profile.htmGood luck...
are they the same if not what is the difference and is it possable to have a 73 or 74 440 steel crank made to the same spec's as a 69 440 steel crank. what advantages are their with a steel crank vice forged. George-They're all the same as far as street use is concerned. The only difference that I know of is the factory balance due to different piston weights over the years. George, Mopar did experiment with different alloys, they even had a 4340 crank in a few of the 6 pack motors. these will be few and far between, but if you plan to race this motor, or use any exotic fuels, try to get a 4340, if it is...
rebuilding a 69 440 with a performer rpm package form edelbrock. the cam has a lift of 485 - 495. know do i need to have adjustable rockes being unber 500 lift George Is your cam a hydrolic or soild cam? soild would new adjustable rockers. George-Use the HD MP rockers - they're cheap and work well. You don't need adjustables. the stamped rockers are ok.the adjustables are better if you run them loose this eliminates some internal drag on the motor and frees up some top end h.p.
Looking for left torsion bar. Any info helpful. no help yet If one bar went, the other can't be far behind. Mopar Performance finally has a decent selection of torsion bars available. I would suggest you replace them both. Ride quality & control will be improved. Torsion bars are only straight springs & do become fatigued over time. I have the 1.160" bars on a 69 Coronet & it rides FIRM, but very acceptable, & handles very well for a 5,000 lb station wagon. If the 41.0" long bars are incorrect for your car, try to find replacements, I know they are out there! I found new bars for a 78 Fury...
i know this has been done to death ,but here goes,When is chrysler(dodge)gonna get back to winston cup????They have made all the excuses i want to hear.They got a real good small block race platform now.Who else would like to see this happen? EVERYONE WHO LOVES MOPARS!!!!!!!!!!! I wonder if any of the MOPAR big shots ever come down to these boards,just tolook around,after all they own em. If they do I hope they GET THE MESSAGE!!!!!!!!%^&()@!!!! Probably as soon as they bring back the total rear wheel drive two-door coupes. Otherwise, it seems chrysler loves FWD which really bites...
I have a 79 vintage 360 that seems to change the timing when it wants. It is set at 10 btdc, as per the book, but if you check it idling with the vacuum advance disconnected in park, it reads 15 btdc, and when you check it idling in neutral with vacuum advance disconnected, it reads 10 btdc. At the current idle speed (about 900 rpm), the vacuum advance doesn't matter anyway. When you set the idle speed, the rpm drops severally when you put it in gear. You can get everything set right, like idle speed and such, but when you drive it, the idle drops dramatically at a stop sign (like to about 450 rpm). Fluid levels in both the engine and tranny are fine. Could my torque...
HELP! I want to put anew cam in my RB. I am currently running a solid lifter,.550L/290D, with 1.5 ex & 1.6 in rockers. I know that I'll have to get another 1/2 set of either one. I would like to go roller, but I don't want to make the mistake of over camming. I've got 915 heads ( 67 Hi-Po )Arias pistons( they were domed but had to be shaved flat to run these heads) they do have the valve reliefs. Intake is a torker, I have both a 750 & a 1050. N2O is occasionally run too. How about it guys, any suggestions? bryant fields call jim at racer brown baltamore maryland bryant fields call jim at racer brown...
I have an '80 Mirada that we have done a bunch of upgrades to on the suspension.ie urethane control arm bushing, sway bar, k-frame, and upgraded the sway bars in the process. The problem I am having is I can't find a urethane replacement for the front spring eye bushing. The stock one is not a simple round one either. It is very oval with a hole in it ahead and behind the actual hole for the spring bolt. Any one know of where I could find a urethane for the stock rubber? Two ways to fix this problem: First is the old 1960's method of putting bolts in the extra holes to stiffen up the bushing. Second would be to have springs made to the same...
I have an '80 Mirada that we have done a bunch of upgrades to on the suspension.ie urethane control arm bushing, sway bar, k-frame, and upgraded the sway bars in the process. The problem I am having is I can't find a urethane replacement for the front spring eye bushing. The stock one is not a simple round one either. It is very oval with a hole in it ahead and behind the actual hole for the spring bolt. Any one know of where I could find a urethane for the stock rubber? Two ways to fix this problem: First is the old 1960's method of putting bolts in the extra holes to stiffen up the bushing. Second would be to have springs made to the same...
I recently did a hi perf. rebuild on my 440 with TCI trans and converter. Every time I try to start my 440 the starter gear will not disengauge if the motor dont start. Then I have to rotate the engine back a little to free the gear. While cranking there is a loud cliking comming from the starter/bell housing. Very unusual. Any Ideas??? as a newbie to Mopar performance I can only think maybe it needs a shim or your starter needs to be rebuilt It appears the starter lacks the torque turn the fresh engine and gets stuck part way through a revolution. A new mini-starter has more torque and could solve your problem...
No.NO. NO. That's not what I'm talking about. I mean steering boxes. http://www.mopar.net/ubb/wink.gif How many of you guys would like to see Mopar release a new "Firm Feel" power steering box? I just finished doing the whole front end on my Mirada in urethane and I really wish that I could have put a higher effort chuck in there. I know that there guys out there that do the conversion but I haven't found anyone local that does that. Anyone interested? Hi There!Yeah, this would be welcome here. I just got done with a 1980 Diplomat front end rebuild and would love to put in a Firm Feel steering box in...
I have a 68 Dart with a 273 that was worked over by Ray Barton. It has the following: 30 over JE 10.5:1 pistons, 1.6 rockers, 214.5 duration @ 50 .470 lift cam, 70' 340 cast iron intake, 600 holley double pumper, minor headwork with upsized stainless 1.88 valves, 3500 stall TCI converter, 4.56 gears, and a pinion snubber. I also put on a Hemi hood scoop with home made working ram air. The best time it ran was a 14.22 at 96 MPH. Can anyone out there get me into the 13's. Thanks. Frustrated. quickest way to hit the 13's steve is to lose weight, put your dart on a diet. next best way, get a larger motor, most of your parts will swap over to 318...
Hi Everyone!I have a 360 block cast on 10-21-87, which by the looks of the other ID numbers was used in '89. This block also looks like it was equipped with a roller cam. I would like to run a standard hydraulic in my fresh 360, is this block usable for that purpose?Thanks very much. yes you can i think if it is a pre magnum block,wich yours should be.spend 20 bucks and get the mopar engine book A hyd. set-up is exceptable for your block as long as you use a comlplete set.Never,ever mix componets from roller to hyd. Good luck Yes you can use a non roller cam in...
Does anyone know the engine specs on the D-Dart and how fast they ran in the quarter. I need to know what cam duration, carb size, compression, intake style(single or dual plane), what gears, and what kind of heads and valve sizes. Somewhere I read said they had 275 h.p., but nothing about torque. They said it ran low 13's with this version of the 273. I have the site posted 13 sec. 273 and that is why I'd like this information. My 273 has 300 h.p. and 4.56 gears and runs 14.22. This is why I am so frustrated. somewhere ido have some specs on them,not quite surewhere they are now.from what i can remember:holley 715 cfm carb,
I have a 73 Sattelite with a 400 engine / 727 trans that I am restoring/modifying and I want to push four hundred horses out of this combo. The engine has 90,000 on it and I will rebuild it in my highschool auto shop in a year. This engine stock in two barrel form pushed out a measly 185 hp. That sucks and it will be changed. Now I have a edelbrock carb and manifold with 2 inch dual so I might have 250.My main concern is compression. It was 7.6 or 8.2 to one (i cant remember, its a aftermarket engine.) I need to get about 9.5 to one out of it. If any one knows how to do this without milling the heads 2 inches I would really like to know.
sombody told me that i should not use my 318 heads on my 318(doing a rebuild and horsepower increase)but should use 340 or 360 heads on it.i figured i would just get a 3 angle valve job,swirl port them and rock on,any sugg. would be greatly appreciated... thanks........ Your 318 heads are fine but you can usually get better performance with the bigger heads esspecially 340 heads with 202 size valves but you can get good enough hp with 360 heads esspecially if you shave them to bump the commpression up I would suggest using the 308 swirl port heads...they are off of '88'-'91 truck 318 and 360's.
I recently rebuilt my 73' 440. The block was bored 30 over with 9 :1flat top pistons. Ialso am running a mild street cam.I have the 346 open chamber heads that were re done with the stock valves. The problem is this thing seems like it has no torque and can't get out of it's own way ! I have the timing set to 10btc. If I go any further it pings real bad . Is my problem with the heads or am I doing something else wrong ? It sits in a 70' Roadrunner with a 4spd trans and 3.23 gears. Please Help !!! Start at the top and go downmake sure the carb is'nt leaning out and is working correctly.chek the distributor, check the curve...
ok, now I'm pulling the hair out of my chest now that there is none left on my head from trying to figure out my problem. The engine and trans: 1974 440 hi per. rebuild, 1974 727 with b&m rebuild kit, tci 11" 2800 rpm stall with proper balanced flex plate for the cast crank motor.The problem: The starter makes a loud clicking noise when i crank the engine over (no it is not the starter relay). If the engine does not fire the starter will stay engauged. Therefore leaving me to get put nad crank the engine back a little to release the starter gear. WHY????As far as I know there is no way to shim a mopar starter other than doing it...
I have a 1986 D50 pickup with a 440 stuffed under the hood. It has been striped of everything useless. The rear end is narrowed with the stock suspension still in place. I have a 9 inch ford under it but i'm not sure what gears to run. I'm running 1/8 mile. the tires are 31.5 tall 14 wide . The 440 I have in it is basically stockTorker 440 intake 750 holley 516 heads small valves stock rockers292 509 cam30 over flat top TRW'sthe bottom end is all stock 67 440.What I want to know is what can I do to this thing for as little money to go faster?I have seen the truck run 7.28 1/8 mile times with the first owner
I'm building 400 with 440 crank and need to know how to identify when the block was made ? I wan't pre-76 block.where is those ID numbers located in block ?My friend have 1 block which has casting numbers like 400HP and 280176.I think it's made early'76 and is HighPerformance, but is that block 76-78 casting ,or is it pre-76 better casting ?Or am i totally wrong ?Thanks, Kimmo Hedman http://www.prostreet.net Finland[This message has been edited by Kimmo (edited March 09, 1999).][This message has been edited by Kimmo (edited March 09...
I have a 1998 Dakota R/T Club Cab. My friend has a 1999 R/T Club Cab. Does anyone know why they make a whining noise in reverse. Also it sounds like my brakes are grinding, but the rotors, drums, pads, and shoes look fine. Look Ive owned five dodges this past two years. Not saying i"m an expert or anything like this. GO GET YOUR ROTORS TURNED AND REPLACE AND REPAC YOUR WHEEL BEARINGS EVEN IF THEY LOOK OK. ALSO MAKE SURE THEY SET THE CORRECT TORQUE ON THEM WHEN THEY REPLACE THEM, DEMAND IT BE DONE Ive already encountererd that problem. on your whining problem there is a bullitin on that for dodge transmissions i think it envoles replacing...
I am trying to decide which cam to use on a dual purpose Vehicle. My choices are the MP Purple shaft 284 dur 484" lift or 292 dur 509" lift. The engine is a 383 .030 over, 11.0:1 pistons, Stock MP template ported heads with stock valves and P3690933 valve springs, 2000 stall converter, 727 TF , 83/4 w/ 3.91 gears and 28" or 26" tall tires. I need to figure which cam to use. The best time it ran with this combo was a 13.81 except the new valve springs and porting have not yet installed them. Want to get down to Low to Mid 12s. Rpm range 1500-7000. Both cams are good choices, I would lean towards the second one, but...